Day 7 (Samurai) Tuesday 28th June.

I feel as though I have been off the planet. Today was the first day that plans had really changed but more on that later. I made it to the Isle Of Skye (as planned) and it truely was mindblowing. 

The landscape did not fit an island and simply would not stay still. Mahoosive mountains gave way to farmland and shepard huts, the view across the water was incredible mountains in the distancelike jagged teeth but with a blue tinge like woodsmoke. The farmland became moorland like Dartmoor, then not like Dartmoor. Plunging valleys (on an island?) and startling coastline around a headland I could see a plunging cliff giving the impression of a fjord and there were at least three waterfalls cascading over the edge. 

Rocky islets around the shoreline and inlets that were so large, I wasn’t sure they were actual lochs or rivers…. The weather followed suit, blue sky above and huge rain showers in the distance barrelled towards me, wind…. Huge wind and then silence and still.

I got to Fairy falls where I was going to stop for the night but there were sheets of water and I was twitchy about the fuel left in my tank, so I spun round and headed for the petrol station. This meant I was already making up time for tomorrows trip and would have more time to spend en route. Back across the Skye Bridge and stopped for fish and chips in Kyle. As I was getting kitted up, my brain registered the word Cornwall and I couldn’t work out why. A lady had just got into the car next to me and I asked her if she was from there. She was and it turns out her tote bag was a Cornwall Hospice Care one and I had picked it up subconsciously. We chatted for a while about why we were both in Scotland and went our separate ways. I headed off without a plan other than to find the right spot to sleep for the night. A few trees, road close to for the bike and flat dry land. Picturesque too if you please. I pulled over to photograph some Hairy Coos and the lady from earlier stopped next to me. What were the chances of all the [places and all the timings and I just happened to stop for her to catch me. She wanted to tell me of a spot by a Loch that was very quiet (few locals let alone visitors) and thought would suit me and wished she had said earlier.
I followed her directions and the spot was perfect. Not many trees, but the weather was much better and it was so quiet and peaceful……



So what of the morning. I stupidly woke myself (and everyone else in the bunkroom) up by punching the mattress of the top bunk in my sleep. So I made best use of my time and rose slowly and headed off a little earlier than expected. Alongside Loch Lochy and Loch Garry and dodged Loch Duich as I was heading up the Ratagan Pass 

to catch the Glenelg ferry. ON arriving, it was on the mooring and I assumed they would wait for a decent amount of cars and then dock. It took a while, but I played with the ferry dog (who I have yet to look up on facebook) another car walked off and came back to say there was engine trouble and it wasn’t operating today. So I headed BACK on the Ratagan Pass (which was just as attractive) and alongside Loch Duich to Kyle. Leaving the pup to look forlornly out to sea for her master.....

Via Eilean Donan Castle which was as ummmmmmmmmm, picturesque as you can imagine. 

I think I have run out of superlatives and adjectives for Scotland. There is not a lot that isn’t beautiful, remarkable or stunning scenery. And that is in no way boring…. You never know what’s around the next corner and if it isn’t better than the last three miles, or jaw droppingly amazing, or enough to stop you in your tracks, it doesn’t matter. It is still incredible…. Mile by mile. When I get back I’m going to have to look back at the lakes, forests, mountains, Lochs, streams, castles, features, islands and so much more to try and put them in place psychologically…….