Day 9 (and a half weeks) Thursday 30th June

 Today was dogged by technical problems, well, "A" technical problem. Out here in the boonies (North West Coast) there is no phone signal and everytime I checked to Thurso, it was still the case. But on being told the signal was good in Thurso, I rebooted the phone and everything worked. What this had meant though was that I had been unable to call Sam, the manager ahead of time, so he was not available. By the reception from his colleagues though, he must be a lovely guy as they were so warm and welcoming. I got my ticket for Maverick (I said it would make a billion dollars) had a real look round and marvelled at how different to the others it was and yet how familiar and comfortable at the same time. It is in a modern building on the edge of Thurso and the layout of the seating and theatres feels very spacious and in a funny way, modern. They have quirky stars on the ground indoors for Elizabeth Taylor and others, but the thing I loved, as part of the Decor were quotes from films, and not just the famous ones too. I'm coming back, only next time I'll be watching a film, there's a lovely atmsphere and it has a real sense of "tech quality" too.....

So how did my day start. Another dry pack up for the bivvy and a million midges following my every move. Boots were still wet but such is life. The one movie quote that has made a huge difference to me over the last few days, comes from "The Assassin",,,, "I never did mind about the little things" a bit like Hakuna Matata, but with a rocket launcher and it really has helped to settle my mind. 

Breakfast was two cans of iced coffee and a yoghurt bar, admiring the castle on the isle that had gone before and off I set. From Loch Assynt to Helmsdale I covered about 245 miles today and much of it was wilderness. Not barren and charred, but lush rocky lumpy moorland wilderness. There was Loch after Loch, some mirror flat others stirred and rippling, there were extraordinary views and at one point An Almighty Glen which was literally breathtaking in scale. A few more deer, lots of sheep  and of course Hairy Coos . 

Durness felt like a real turning point (Sorry, couldn't resist) and I stopped at Smoo Cave for a mooch. To me the cave wasn't that impressive (but I didn't go on the tour) the inlet just outside though looked and sounded fantastic. Crystal clear waters, sheer cliffs rising and the echoing sound of the birds was beautiful. 

Then I stopped at Talmine on the Kyle of Tongue. Some where I had been before...... as athree year old. I took some photos for Mother and will see if I can match them up with the originals from the 70's when I get home.  

Across the causeway and the long haul to The Merlin Cinema, Thurso. Cars everywhere, from roads that are borderline deserted to a busy town, it was a bit of a shock, but once heading out to Dunnet Head, normality resumed. I am not looking forward to the M25 in a few days time.......

I checked off the most Northerly point in Mainland Britain 

and headed on to John O Groats where I met up with the delightful Stephanie Evens. Lovely to chat to and nothing was too much trouble. She even rounded up a couple of the team to help with and take part in the photos at the signpost. 

The weather for the day had been really good with the odd shower, but the blue skie that opened up for us at about 1530 could not have been better. As I was leaving there was the classic Highland fog drifting across, below blue skies and it wafted in and out, the whole way to Helmsdale where I had a bunkroom and midge free bed waiting for me. The welcome was delightful, the building what loked to be a beautifully converted chapel and the owner helped with everythign from local knowledge, to hanging up my socks!!!!!!

In terms of days, this is the end of 9/14. Distance, I topped 2000 miles today 

(2175 by the end) and I had estimated it would be around 3200. And in terms of way points, John O Groats was the target and now I have turned around and am heading home......... Slowly.  

Day 8 (Legged Freaks) Weds 30th June

Once again I slept very well, and woke at 0520 for about 30 mins then was able to sleep to my alarm. I got everything packed before the rain, but when it came, it didn’t come hard. Then it cleared up and for the most of the day it was lovely blue sky and clear weather,



Loch Carron was a highlight of the break. A quaint (no other word for it) cafe on the shore and the weather clearing beautifully and the mountains with steam and cloud enveloping and dissipating from them. The guy was 30 miute short of opening, but there was no way I was leaving I sat and soaked up the view and when he got back, ordered a mug of tea and bacon and egg sandwich and invited him to join me. He talked well and we shared stories but I just could not tear myself away from the view. An hour, 90 miuntes I was there and just got lost in the beauty of it.



One of our Pilots, Charlie Baker had recomended Torridon to me and the guy at the albatross cafe said to keep going through Torridon and the road is windy, quiet and very picturesque. I took both of their advice and they were spot on. An amazing road, one of the best viewpoints I have seen yet and at the end of it, the filming location for “Loch Ness” starring Ted Danson. What more could you ask for?


I saw my first deer today. I was beginning to think I was going to get through the entire trip without seeing one, but three hopped across the road in front of me and just before finding my camp spot for the night I saw a herd, though they were in a garden so could be “owned” I suppose.

It hammered it down, the conditions were awful and there was no way and no point in stopping I just laboured on in the pouring rain and the grim spray. There was an MX2 recently flipped and I stopped to see if I could help, but the locals were out and the driver had been unhurt. Horrible mess though, on it;s roof an all…A few miles later, it was like flipping a switch. The rain stopped and blue sky greeted me, just as I hit a cracking viewing point.



And that was how it stayed, to Ullapool and beyond. At around six I decided to start looking for a camping spot, but this far north, trees are in pretty short supply. Well, no they're not, but what trees there were, were fenced in or around a house. It wasn’t too breezy so I decided to look for a location with a view. It was at Loch Assynt with an island bound ruined castle that I set up camp and ran out of time to get in the bivvy before a massive squall went through.

 
In my waterproofs I just sat alongside it for about 25 minutes and watched as blue sky slowly approached. Then I was forced into the bivvy, prematurely by marauding midges. I’ve already experienced them, but this was a clump of about 82 million and were not put off by the smidge cream…….

I’m about 45 mins further north than planned which will hpefully get me a bit longer to explore Talmine,Thursoi amd Dunnet HEad……

Day 7 (Samurai) Tuesday 28th June.

I feel as though I have been off the planet. Today was the first day that plans had really changed but more on that later. I made it to the Isle Of Skye (as planned) and it truely was mindblowing. 

The landscape did not fit an island and simply would not stay still. Mahoosive mountains gave way to farmland and shepard huts, the view across the water was incredible mountains in the distancelike jagged teeth but with a blue tinge like woodsmoke. The farmland became moorland like Dartmoor, then not like Dartmoor. Plunging valleys (on an island?) and startling coastline around a headland I could see a plunging cliff giving the impression of a fjord and there were at least three waterfalls cascading over the edge. 

Rocky islets around the shoreline and inlets that were so large, I wasn’t sure they were actual lochs or rivers…. The weather followed suit, blue sky above and huge rain showers in the distance barrelled towards me, wind…. Huge wind and then silence and still.

I got to Fairy falls where I was going to stop for the night but there were sheets of water and I was twitchy about the fuel left in my tank, so I spun round and headed for the petrol station. This meant I was already making up time for tomorrows trip and would have more time to spend en route. Back across the Skye Bridge and stopped for fish and chips in Kyle. As I was getting kitted up, my brain registered the word Cornwall and I couldn’t work out why. A lady had just got into the car next to me and I asked her if she was from there. She was and it turns out her tote bag was a Cornwall Hospice Care one and I had picked it up subconsciously. We chatted for a while about why we were both in Scotland and went our separate ways. I headed off without a plan other than to find the right spot to sleep for the night. A few trees, road close to for the bike and flat dry land. Picturesque too if you please. I pulled over to photograph some Hairy Coos and the lady from earlier stopped next to me. What were the chances of all the [places and all the timings and I just happened to stop for her to catch me. She wanted to tell me of a spot by a Loch that was very quiet (few locals let alone visitors) and thought would suit me and wished she had said earlier.
I followed her directions and the spot was perfect. Not many trees, but the weather was much better and it was so quiet and peaceful……



So what of the morning. I stupidly woke myself (and everyone else in the bunkroom) up by punching the mattress of the top bunk in my sleep. So I made best use of my time and rose slowly and headed off a little earlier than expected. Alongside Loch Lochy and Loch Garry and dodged Loch Duich as I was heading up the Ratagan Pass 

to catch the Glenelg ferry. ON arriving, it was on the mooring and I assumed they would wait for a decent amount of cars and then dock. It took a while, but I played with the ferry dog (who I have yet to look up on facebook) another car walked off and came back to say there was engine trouble and it wasn’t operating today. So I headed BACK on the Ratagan Pass (which was just as attractive) and alongside Loch Duich to Kyle. Leaving the pup to look forlornly out to sea for her master.....

Via Eilean Donan Castle which was as ummmmmmmmmm, picturesque as you can imagine. 

I think I have run out of superlatives and adjectives for Scotland. There is not a lot that isn’t beautiful, remarkable or stunning scenery. And that is in no way boring…. You never know what’s around the next corner and if it isn’t better than the last three miles, or jaw droppingly amazing, or enough to stop you in your tracks, it doesn’t matter. It is still incredible…. Mile by mile. When I get back I’m going to have to look back at the lakes, forests, mountains, Lochs, streams, castles, features, islands and so much more to try and put them in place psychologically…….

Eye In The Sky

 Now this blog is a bit of an experiment to see if the links work. 

Each day I have been tracking my trip with a lovely little app called "Relive", it sometimes fails when it looses signal and takes the journey over mountains and through the sea or such but it is effective and shows the route taken. 

Day 1- Cornwall https://www.relive.cc/view/vrqokRJk8yq

Day 2- Devon   https://www.relive.cc/view/vDqgMWG15VO

Day 3 - Wales    https://www.relive.cc/view/vAOZDjJ5wyq

Day 4 - Into Scotland    https://www.relive.cc/view/vNOPo9Z5L2v

Day 5 - Round Loch Lomond     https://www.relive.cc/view/v36AP4L8PGO

Day 6 -  The Glens to Fort William       https://www.relive.cc/view/vmqXN4ypnLO

Day 6 (Degrees Of Separation)

 As peaceful as it was, sleeping by a babbling brook, it didn't stop me dreaming Putin was going to make a world changing announcement and then used an EMP which stopped every electrical item around the planet.....

It was dry (though it had rained overnight) so packing up was quicker and I was out of there early heading north. Past Faslane I headed alongside Loch Long which was magical in the early morning still. I rode past a fascinating turning up to the Tulloch Road and having made it to the head of the Loch, I turned round to explore it......which was a delight.

From there it was to Arrochar (it started to rain) and along the A83 (it was torrential). I made it to a stunning view point called "Rest and Be Thankful) so I did, and the rain eased. 

Round to Inverary and up to Dalmally and the highlight of the day.... I had planned to take a valley route to Bridge Of Orchy, and it was empty ( three other bikes in all, going in the same direction) and wonderful. And the rain had stopped. 

On to Glen Coe and as I approached, I could see a wall of grey. It rained, but in some respects it added to the atmosphere of my journey through the Glen. And again, when I got to the view point things improved. 

From Glen Coe to the Corran Ferry (what a friendly crew) and up the wrong side of Loch Linnhe 

to Glen Finnan. Everyone was doing the Harry Potter thing and missing the view down the Loch. Absolutely stunning and with blue skies above, I just sat there and soaked it up for half an hour. Off to Fort William, fuelled the bike up and settled into the Hostel. 

Day 5 (Easy Pieces)

It was wet last night.








No, it bucketed down and the wind was howling through the trees, very atmospheric. Though I woke several times, when I was asleep I slept well and it was my alarm that woke me at 0650. It was still raining, but inside the Bivvy I was bone dry, but how to get up and packed without everything getting wet. I slowly and methodically got dressed lying down, which with a stiff pair of biker trousers is no easy feat. I packed what I could and then opened up and spread a waterproof picnic blanket, filling one half and then folding it over. The bivvy was packed away, the gear collected up, I had a chilled coffee and then loaded the bike after brushing my teeth. Sounds simple maybe, but it took an hour compared to last times dry 30 mins.

I was on my way from the forest of Galloway. In the Rain. And it didn’t stop all day. Well it did three times for about 6 minutes and 30 seconds each and then again at the end of the day (1730) which is where you find me now, charging my gear and pinching McDonalds Wifi.

I headed up to Paiseley and with the wet roads, the mishmash of repair works, I had to take it steadily, which at the same time meant I could take it all in a bit better.

I think the way I think about Scotland is that it is “Like The Lake District”, but it’s ALL like the lake district. The views go on and on, there are forests and Glens everywhere and on top of that, the roads are very, very quiet. I made it to a small farm shop at the side of Loch Lomond at 1000 at met up with Calum, a past pilot of the Otters with Skybus and whos enthusiasm is utterly infectious.

We had a coffee and a lovely time catching up and then we went our separate ways, his to work and mine around Loch Lomond. Calum had pointed out various things across my whole journey I could stop and investigate, but the reality was a short stop at macdonalds became a longer stop when the combination lock strapping my helmet to the bike failed and would not come undone. I asked for a pair of wire cutters or pliers but got a hammer and screwdriver from the McDonalds team. It worked though, tapping the number barrel, something slipped into place and it opened up.




Then it was to the rain and a tour round the Loch. Up the Dukes Pass, more forests,







my first proper look at the Lochs and rain, rain, rain. I was dry though. My biker kit and a decent set of waterproofs kept me bone dry, except for my boots which feel like buckets of water and my gloves which no amount of wringing will resolve. Not a significant issue, though I will start tomorrow in the same moist position I have finished today.


There were some enthralling sites along the way but the highlight had to be the Falls of Falloch, totally swollen after the huge amount of rain encountered today. Not a lot of wildlife out today with the weather, though my satnav took my along a delightful small backroad ending up going through a mini estate and round a corner there was an explosion fo yellow/gold birds. Just a flash, but pretty impressive. Now it’s time to finish charging everything up courtesy of Ronald and find somewhere to sleep. I was planning on a specific spot on the shore of the Loch, but apparently you need a permit within the National Park and I don’t want to upset anyone…….






This is where I found, Glen Fruin, a massive Valley and so picturesque, a little copse of firs, and once inside, a slight clearing next to a stream.....

Day 4 (th Protocol) Sat 25th June.

 Slightly surreal situation. Having pretty much been riding all day, the world has slowed down and I am sat in a the Black Horse Hotel and bar in Newton Stewart just a couple of miles from todays final destination. They have Wifi and I'm gonna make use of it......

I slept well last night, the sofa was friendlier than a Welsh Mountainside, there were no Black Sheep and my cold seemed to be turning. Loaded the bike up and headed off to my spiritual home (2nd only to Leicester Square), Cumbria, The Lake District. Yammered up the M6 at a comfortable 75 and had what I thought was my scare for the day with a lorry moving across me, I quickly checked my shoulder (car well behind) moved across and 5 seconds later the car behind was under my brake light. Reminded me off the scene in Jurassic Park with the T Rex in the rear view mirror. Headed round Newby Bridge and up alongside Coniston picking out Wildcat Island from Swallows and Amazons and carried on round to Tarn Hows. 

I had some extra time on my hands and decided to do something I've always wanted to do..... The Hardknott and Wrynose Pass, on two wheels. I remember the first time I did it in a car, it had been raining and we had some wheelspin on a couple of the steep hairpins which was quite disconcerting. On the bike though was a different matter, the element of control coming through the clutch and accelerator and the balance and turn make it a totally different proposal. And there was no way I wanted to drop the bike as it is heavy enough to lift even without the luggage kit on it. All was well though and I stopped at the top to take a photo. I had the bike facing the wrong way though and as I maneauvered it gradually round, the bike wheel slid on some gravel, I lost balance on the uneven road and down. it. went. I don't think there is anything sadder looking than a motorbike just lying in the road. It's just wrong. And heavy. I lifted, it wouldn't move. I took off the luggage kit and because of the angle of the road and weight and knackeredness, I still couldn't lift it. So I waited. For about 3 minutes until the huffing and puffing behind me signalled the arrival of a cyclist who stopped as I turned around and was more than happy to help lift (once he had got his breath back). Happy to say Ripley came out of it without a scratch..... 

I crossed the passes and came back then headed through Langdale itself which was stunninger than I remember and just gave me the overwhelming sensation that we would have to come back JUST to explore Langdale at some point. 

Then it was heading out of Cumbria and onto the M6 to and across the Border (I can't even type that word now without rolling the "r" in a soft Scots accent)

The A75 is remarkable and remarkably quiet. long straight stretches and corners so fine they almost seem straight, but that's not the point. The backdrop is remarkable. The are so many superlatives to describe the beautiful countryside around us and I've used a fair few myself already in this blog, but Scotland is something else. Dumfries and Galloway is so lush and green. The Blue Skies helped but they had no bearing on the view.......... The landscape seemed so open, but still mountainous. In the Lake District the mountains are all around, up close and hiding the next one from view with their drama, but here, the countryside seems to flow with the mountains there as a diorama, fencing us in and as you drive towards them the next part comes into view. The stint along the North Sea inlet was something special, but I'm still trying to process my emotions with what I saw on the way in.   

I topped the 1000 mile mark this afternoon 

and have probably put in around 350 miles today. A full breakdown of statistics to come when I get to my first Youth Hostel  in three nights time!

Day 3 (Men and a Baby) 24th June.

 Yes the sheep did interfere with me, at around 5am. Lots of bleating and rustling up alongside the Bivvy, but that wasn't the problem. I went to sleep with a bit of a sore throat which I thought was dehydration and woke a couple of hours later with a totally blocked nose and buzzing sinuses. I slept badly and then with the sheep waking me early I gradually got up and packed away the gear. I felt a bit groggy but with some fresh air and a chilled coffee from last nights Co-op fiasco, I was set for an early satart and headed off. Wales was deserted. The roads were quiet and my route took me through the Elan Valley and alongside the Garrge Ddu Reservoir  and two others I won't even try to spell which, all in was simply majestic. 

The roads were lovely for biking..... smooth long bends and several picturesque starights meant that travelling was an absolute pleasure, and as the day wore on, My nasal state improved but I lost my voice. 

Snowdonia was exactly what you would expect from one of our National Parks. towering mountains, plunging valleys, piles of slate and so many sheep. My route from Brecon to Chester took me to the coast at Tywyn (Game of thrones anyone?), 

Through the heart of Snowdonia at Blaenau Ffestiniog and up to the North coast and the lovely two screen "Scala" cinema in Prestatyn. Nicci the manager was as excited to see me as I was knackered, but her enthusiasm rubbed off and I got the full tour..... Two screens with an amazing damped sound in each and a remarkable layout for the seating. She gave me a rundown of its recent history and even a book detailing it's life from the early 1900's to just a few years ago. But other than meeting Nicci and her 18 year old little 'un, Artie, The highlight was a wonderful mural created by a local artist some years ago, depincting the Scala in its differnt guises and the big films from those eras. 

The Shyamalan type twist though was that all the characters portrayed in it were locals who had donated to the Scala cause. Some have passed on, the yougsters have grown up, and many come back to see what they have been a part of. The managers I have been able to stop and chat to have all passed on nuggets of information about the buildings they run and the history behind them and all have done so with a genuine passion. Nicci though seemed to be a part of the history, so at home in the building and in her own words "having been at the Scala in one from or another for 26 years"......

It was a lovely way to end the marathon stint of visiting so many (14) in a short space of time.... I now have two to go, over the next 11 days, but a whole lot in between as well.....
And the forecast is rain tomorrow evening in the Forest of Galloway. 
We shall see.